The little black dress, also referred to as the LBD, was introduced to the fashion world by Coco Chanel in 1926. The elegant, yet minimalistic piece became quickly a must have in every fashion lover’s wardrobe and even Barbie was caught wearing her first black dress in 1964. Referred to as Chanel’s T-Ford, the LBD was considered revolutionary in both styles, with the drop waist and the straight-line silhouette and the bold choice of colour. Through Chanel’s influence though, the colour black quickly transformed from a colour associated with widows and religious figures to one worn by movie stars and socialites.
Where it All Began
The LBD-phenomenon actually started as early as 1884 when the painter John Singer Sargent created quite a stir in Parisian circles with Madame X, a portrait of a young socialite in a black long, elegant dress with a high slit and a deep décolletage. This illustrates that the trend of wearing black as a fashion statement was already in motion in the end of the 19th century.
The first LBD. "Madame X" by John Singer Sargent became a scandal at the Parisian Salon in 1884, with her high slit and a deep décolletage. Today she is considered an icon, with a permanent position at MoMa in New York. © Wikimedia Commons
The first glimpse of the calf length dress in black crepe de chine that Chanel had invented, was in form of a sketch in American Vogue, but Coco was soon to make a ready to wear version in jersey so that the garment, that was designed to be worn on any occasion, would be accessible to everyone.
The Most Popular Dress in History
Malin Sveholm, Vintage Fashion expert, explains the popularity of the long lasting trend
"Because it’s the most timeless and useful concept created for a dress. It is useful both for everyday life and for parties, it simply becomes what you make it: soberly elegant, party-like, meeting-functional or cocktail-chic. The accessories decide. And not least, it's practical because you can show up as many times as you like in it without anyone seeing that you're wearing the same dress. Good for both your wallet and the environment!”
Iconic LBD Designs and the Celebrities that Wore them
Throughout the 20th century all the major fashion houses have created their take on the LBD. In 1950’s Christian Dior designed his versions, often with a feminine twist. Like in the creation that Sophia Loren was seen wearing in 1958 - in a true Dior signature style with rounded shoulders, full skirts and nipped in waists.
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The designer who has captured the essence of the LBD like no one else is Hubert de Givenchy. The elaborate long frock in black Italian satin with a strapless back is forever associated with Audrey Hepburn having breakfast in front of Tiffany’s in 1961. Accessorized with high gloves, big pearls, sunglasses and a croissant it became the perfect reflection of Truman Capote’s complex character and a true testament that one could wear absolutely anything with the LBD.
Audrey Hepburns LBD from "Breakfast at Tiffanies" with pearls, gloves and sunglasses have become an icon outfit, aswell as Elisabeth Hurley's Versace f have become two major from Four Weddings and a Funeral premiere
A different shape was taking form in the little black dresses created by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior. Where his designs embodied the bohemian era of the late 1960s, where Catherine Deneuve was famously put in a schoolgirl inspired LBD in her role in the movie Belle de Jour in 1967.
During the 90s the it-girls - super models, actresses’ royalties, were wearing expressive black pieces from designers such as Dolce and Gabbana, Gianni Versace and Azzedine Alaïa. One of the most remarkable is the Versace dress that Elisabeth Hurley was wearing while she was attending the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral, where the revealing dress was held together with safety pins. Another iconic LBD from the 90’s is Princess Diana’s “revenge dress” designed by Christina Stambolian.
Style your LBD
The little black dress comes with numerous advantages, one of which is its endless versatility in styling. Pair it with a vibrant clutch, a statement gold necklace, or timeless pearls—let your personal style guide you. We've curated a small selection from our archive of items that we believe will complement any occasion perfectly.
Finding Vintage Fashion Online
The most popular dress is the classic LBD, i.e. a relatively simple black dress imbued with an elegance. Knee length and constructed in a way that flatters the body. A more recent model becoming more and more popular, is the slip dress, it is more distinctly sexy but can also be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Of course, Chanel is very popular, but also dresses from brands such as Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Celine, Gucci, Versace and Givenchy are in high demand.
