Rolex is undoubtedly the world's most recognised premium watch brand and almost the epitome of a high-quality luxury timepiece. Although the brand has always exuded exclusivity, it made a significant leap up the prestige ranks in the 1970s and 1980s when the new prices multiplied several times.
At the same time, demand has risen, while production has not increased at the same pace, resulting in growing wait times for the most sought-after models and, in some cases, second-hand prices even surpassing new prices.
Since the brand and company’s beginnings in London, and later move to Switzerland, the company has launched some of the most recognized series, like The Submariner, The Datejust, The Daytona, The GMT Master and The Oyster Perpetual.
Rolex GMT-Master II "Pepsi", from 2018.
The Most Counterfeited Watches in the World
All Rolex series have one thing in common: They are among the most counterfeited watches in the world. Estimates tell that 40 million counterfeit watches are sold globally each year, generating a net profit of roughly 1 billion pounds.
That means the illegal trade in fake watches equals around 6 percent of the Swiss watch industry’s annual export value. Rolex accounts for approximately half of all replica watches sold.
Harder to Distinguish
Five or ten years ago, it was quite easy to distinguish a fake Rolex from a real one, but in recent years, it has become more difficult to spot the difference since the replica makers have become increasingly skilled. Advances in manufacturing technology have made it easier and cheaper to produce high-quality counterfeit watches. Sophisticated machinery and techniques allow counterfeiters to create replicas that can be very convincing, especially to the untrained eye.
Rolex GMT Master © Stockholms Auktionsverk
The profit margins on counterfeit Rolex watches can be very high. The cost of producing a fake Rolex is relatively low compared to the price at which these counterfeits can be sold. This high profitability incentivizes the production and distribution of replica watches.
In many regions, enforcing intellectual property rights and the penalties for producing or selling counterfeit goods are insufficient to deter counterfeiters. The potential financial rewards outweigh the risks, making it a profitable enterprise for many.
Iconic Models
The most counterfeited Rolex models are the Submariner, Daytona, and Datejust, followed by GMT-Master II and Day-Date.
The Submariner is one of the most iconic Rolex models, known for its design and durability. Its popularity makes it a prime target for counterfeiters.
The Daytona is another highly sought-after Rolex, especially in stainless steel, leading to frequent counterfeiting.
The Datejust classic design, with variations in size, materials, and dials, makes it a common target for counterfeit versions.
The GMT-Master II, particularly in the "Pepsi" and "Batman" colour schemes, is another Rolex model frequently copied due to its popularity among collectors.
But even the entry-level Rolex Oyster Perpetual is sometimes counterfeited.
Even though it has become increasingly difficult to determine whether a Rolex is real, there are some steps to follow to examine various details and features characteristic of genuine Rolex watches.
How To Tell if a Rolex Is Real
© Stockholms Auktionsverk
Weight
A genuine Rolex watch feels heavy and solid due to high-quality materials, while a fake watch is often lighter because of cheaper parts.
Serial and Model Numbers
Serial and model numbers are engraved between the lugs at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions or on the so-called rehaut for newer models. The engraving should be precise and fine. Rolex maintains a database of serial numbers and the corresponding watch manufacture date. Although this is not publicly available, official stockists and reputable second-hand luxury watch traders can verify the authenticity of a Rolex using this database. This same source can also validate that the watch has not been reported stolen.
Cyclops Lens
Authentic Rolex watches with a date window have a magnification lens called a “cyclops” that magnifies the date by 2.5 times. This lens, might be of lower quality, misaligned, or may not magnify the date properly on a fake Rolex watch. This feature is unique to Rolex, so if you are looking at another luxury brand featuring one, question the authenticity. The Cyclops is perhaps the easiest way to spot a fake Rolex.
Movement and Sound
A genuine Rolex watch has a smooth, sweeping second hand. The mechanical movements produce a smooth, continuous second-hand sweep with approximately eight ticks per second. The Rolex movement is nearly silent and does not produce a loud ticking sound. However, one model is an exception: the Rolex Oysterquartz, which runs on a quartz movement instead of a self-winding or mechanical one and, therefore, does exhibit a ‘ticking’ motion and sound.
Case Back
The case back on a genuine Rolex watch is usually plain, with no engravings, except on some older models and special editions. Clear and transparent case backs can mostly be found on special editions and should not be found on standard watches.
Micro-etched Crown
Since 2002, Rolex has laser-etched a small crown logo at the 6 o'clock position on the sapphire crystal. This etching is subtle and often requires magnification to see.
The plain case back of a Rolex.
Engravings and Markings
The engravings on a real Rolex, such as the model and serial numbers, are deeply etched and have a crisp, clean finish. Newer models also feature a tiny laser-etched Rolex crown logo at the 6 o'clock position on the crystal, which is barely visible to the naked eye. Engravings on fakes may appear shallow, uneven, or rough. The laser-etched crown is often missing or poorly executed.
Crown Logo on the Winding Crown
The winding crown on a genuine Rolex features a finely detailed Rolex crown logo. The edges are clean, and the logo is perfectly centred. The crown logo on fakes may be poorly detailed, off-centre, or have rough edges.
Documentation
An authentic Rolex should have official Rolex documentation, including the warranty card, instruction manual, and possibly service records. The details on the paperwork should match the watch.
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